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From owner-diesel-digest-outgoing@ns1.vrx.net  Fri Jul 19 09:14:27 2002
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From: owner-diesel-digest@mbz.org (diesel)
To: diesel-digest@mbz.org
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 09:13:38 -0400 (EDT)


diesel             Friday, July 19 2002             Volume 03 : Number 1946



Re: [DIESEL] Delvac-1 Price (and Oil Analysis)
Re: [DIESEL] --she's dead, Jim UPDATE :-(
[DIESEL] Delvac-1 pricing in canada
RE: [DIESEL] Compression
Re: Re: [DIESEL] Revolution Counter
Re: [DIESEL] --she's dead, Jim UPDATE :-(
Re: [DIESEL] --she's dead, Jim  UPDATE :-(
Re: [DIESEL] Re: Diesel - she's dead
[DIESEL] The continuint saga of tires ...
[DIESEL] W126 modifications
[DIESEL] 1987 300D Pretty Nice!
[DIESEL] Mike Sheehan 92 300D
[DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d 
[none]
[DIESEL] Need some advice on my 207D camper
[DIESEL] Re: OIL
Re: [DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d 
[DIESEL] Enginne Brakes and Moose
RE: [DIESEL] Compression
[DIESEL] Re: 
[DIESEL] Re: 
RE: [DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d 
[DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine
[DIESEL] Shock Absorbers
RE: [DIESEL] 1987 300D Pretty Nice!
Re: [DIESEL] Shock Absorbers
Re: [DIESEL] Shock Absorbers
RE: [DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine
Re: [DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine
RE: [DIESEL] Need some advice on my 207D camper

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 20:38:12 -0600
From: Dennis <pegasus@mho.net>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Delvac-1 Price (and Oil Analysis)

Marshall Booth wrote:

> Dennis, According to this site:
>
> http://www.imperialoil.com/pdf/delvac1.pdf
>
> the sulphated ash is 1.3%
>
> Marshall

Hi Marshall..
   Well, thank you for that little tidbit!   It's the first I've seen it.
I might add that maybe thats the reason they don't advertise it much...
it's fairly high for a quality syn oil.  Many oils are mid-fractions of a
percent while Amsoil syns are less than that.  On the upside, if your
engine doesn't BURN oil you're not going to be making much ash.
Dennis,
Colorado
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 19:37:59 -0400
From: hosel <hosel@quik.com>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] --she's dead, Jim UPDATE :-(

Call Potomac German and ask them for the price of a used motor.... 
http://www.pgauto.com/
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 20:03:37 -0700
From: John M McIntosh <johnmci@smalltalkconsulting.com>
Subject: [DIESEL] Delvac-1 pricing in canada

As you all know Exxon joined with Mobil, thus Imperial Oil/Esso in 
Canada now carries Mobil products. So I phoned my local Esso Agent 
(my local phone book out here in BC listed: ESSO consumer sales 
centre, Bulk fuels & Lubricants)

I was quoted $106.40 for a case of 16 liters or $6.65 Cdn per liter 
for Delvac 1, and $7.13 a liter for a case of 6 of 15w50 Mobil 1. 
Didn't ask about 0w-40.

This compares to $8.74 per liter for Delvac 1, and $6.35 per liter of 
15w50 Mobil 1 at my local walmart.

Mmm needless to say I'm going to wonder about converting the gas 
benzs out here to Delvac 1. Unless of course that 0w-40 stuff has an 
interesting price point.

PS maybe someone back in eastern Canada can check pricing with their 
local Esso agent tomorrow morning?
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 20:06:22 -0700
From: "Alex Cruickshank" <alex@holgernis.com>
Subject: RE: [DIESEL] Compression

Marshall

Thanks again.  We risked it and bought an 83 300D.  A couple of hundred
mountain miles later - we are very happy.  My previous experience has been
with Lucas electrics and gasoline engines.  I expect a learning curve but
hope it is not very steep.

Have you suggestions on manuals and if so suppliers?

Alex

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-diesel@mbz.org [mailto:owner-diesel@mbz.org]On Behalf Of
Marshall Booth
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002 12:07 PM
To: diesel@mbz.org
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Compression


Alex, You will be wasting your money on a compression test unless you
have a valve adjustment done first! Lowest cylinder compression above
about 315 psi and cylinder to cylinder variation of no more then about
45 psi are acceptable.

Most low compression situations with 61x series diesels are due to
either carbon accumulation or even more usually valves not properly
adjusted. It's rare to see low compression due to wear (though it can
happen). You will rule out 10-20 good cars to screen out the one that
MIGHT be bad. It will reduce the risk, but if you required NO risk, you
wouldn't be buying a used car (and an OLD used car at that). If the car
starts promptly when cold (1st start of the day) and idles pretty
smoothly (I didn't say quietly) and doesn't smoke much at startup if you
allow the plugs to glow for another 10-15 seconds AFTER the dash light
goes out, it's not likely to have wear related compression problems (and
this insight costs a lot less than a compression test and screens out a
higher percentage of really bad engines, though it's NOT perfect).

Marshall
- --
	  Marshall Booth
      "der Dieseling Doktor" mbooth+@pitt.edu
'87 300TD 154Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 205Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 224Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
154Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 200+kmi, '84 190D 2.2 234Kmi dismantled
      Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
    http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:31:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: mmcguire@hiwaay.net
Subject: Re: Re: [DIESEL] Revolution Counter

Did really think about this till now!

At school we had a mechanical one and a optical one.  The optical was easy for 
kinematics laboratory.  Just put a small piece of reflective tape on the 
pulley, then start her up... point and it would give you a nice reading.

Hey- maybe I'll run by engineering lab and borrow it at lunch to check my 
engine speed!


Michael
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:41:28 -0500
From: "Harry Watkins" <harrywat@intop.net>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] --she's dead, Jim UPDATE :-(

Jeremy wrote:

"Typically if you have worn rings the compression test
after the squirting of oil will show much higher numbers.  I don't see why
this would not work on a Diesel engine."

I was cautioned that the oil could ignite on the compression stroke during
testing, (can't remember who, probably Marshall) I took that advice.

A leakdown test may tell you something.

Harry

86 300 SDL
85 300D Euro
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:55:19 -0500
From: "tennjed" <tennjed@midwest.net>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] --she's dead, Jim  UPDATE :-(

Ed wrote

> 275
> 275
> 155
> 175
> 255
>

I'm curious as to what the chances are of the rings of two pistons, on
cylinders right next to each other, sustaining damage to overheat while the
rest of the cylinders are in spec and apparently have not sustained severe
damage.

This is all a learning experience for me but it seems that there is at least
an outside chance that a single flaw in the head gasket could cause this
problem. It seems that it would at least be worth further investigation.

Regards

Wayne Pinney 85 300D turbo
Wishing Ed the best.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 00:26:02 -0400
From: JFreezn@aol.com
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Re: Diesel - she's dead

In a message dated Thu, 18 Jul 2002 8:41:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, tlambach@attbi.com writes:

> Classic headgasket symptoms: the three good cylinders are 
> 75% and 80% of
> specification and 126% and 117% above minimum spec.
> 
> I'd give it another shot before the boneyard.

Tom/Ed:  I believe the engine is worn out and that nothing on this trip caused it.  The compression is below factory limits but not so bad as to indicate a blown head gasket.  The mechanic is being straight with you and your final choice is as I said before-tow start it and drive it to Montana-don't shut it off unless you park on a BIG hill.  Then you are looking at a minimum of $1500 to overhaul it, if you can do most of the work yourself.  Or sell it to Salim for whatever you get for it, and buy another with the $2500 or so that you don't have right now, when you can.  

Tom: His main problem is the car is in Colorado Springs and he is in Montana.  Quite a commute!

Good luck!

Jim Friesen, 79 300SD, 246K 
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 23:55:05 -0500
From: Craig McCluskey <mccluskey@citalumni.caltech.edu>
Subject: [DIESEL] The continuint saga of tires ...

Thanks for all of your input on tires. It does seem that there's no reason
for Michelin to not have quoted X Ones on a 1982 300D, particularly since
the original tires were S rated as Marshall pointed out.

In looking on the Michelin website, I found a documentation file (PDF) on
X Ones. At the bottom of the specifications, it says,

	When a customer requests a replacement tire with a lower speed
	rating than the original equipment tire, you must clearly
	communicate to him or her that the handling of the vehicle may
	be different, and that its maximum speed capability is limited
	to that of the lowest speed-rated tire on the vehicle. Exceeding
	the lawful speed is neither recommended nor endorsed.

Interesting that they don't say, "Under no circumstances sell him a lower
speed rated tire."


Anyhow, the PDF file also lists numerical specifications including
revs/mile at 45mph for the different tire sizes. The one for my car and
some randomly selected others are:

Specification   Diameter  Revs/Mile
195/70-14       24.6in      851    
195/65-14       23.9in      880    
195/60-14       23.1in      880    
205/70-15       26.1in      802


This compares with the Miata Tire Size Calculator at
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Spec.      Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile
195/70-14   5.4in    12.4in  24.7in       77.7in        815
195/65-14   5.0in    12.0in  24.0in       75.3in        841
195/60-14   4.6in    11.6in  23.2in       72.9in        869
205/70-15   5.6in    13.1in  26.3in       82.6in        767


Quite different numbers for Revs/Mile! I'm not sure who to believe. The
Michelin number of 880 rev/mile for both 195/65-14 and 195/60-14 must be
an error. Taking proportions of diameters to find one Revs/Mile from
another doesn't seem to work either.

Craig
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 01:01:33 EDT
From: Jmiddle122@aol.com
Subject: [DIESEL] W126 modifications

Has anyone ever done this before to an 81-85 W126, put new bumpers and door 
skirts on, the kind without the ridges, 15" alloys, new 86-91 W126 
headlights, and 3rd brake light in the back?

JM
1981 300Sd
"Green Lightnin
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:18:53 -0700
From: "John Freer" <mb300cd@earthlink.net>
Subject: [DIESEL] 1987 300D Pretty Nice!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem item=1844978881 

 

John Freer, Palm Springs, CA

1986 420SEL 103K (for sale)

2002 ML320
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 03:32:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mercedes_Benz_Turbodiesel@webtv.net (John Huntemann)
Subject: [DIESEL] Mike Sheehan 92 300D

Mike,
Are you the same Mike Sheehan that is a retired NYPD detective now a
reporter with Fox5 news in NY? I see you have rcn as an ISP, are you in
Putnam Co.

John Huntemann
1995 S350 Turbodiesel (w140, 603.971)
1996 E300 Diesel (w210, 606.912)
1984 300SD Turbodiesel (w126, 617.951)
MBCA NYC metro area
pics>
http://community-2.webtv.net/john2551
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 10:32:10 +0200
From: Peter Merle <peterm@adsmr.co.za>
Subject: [DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d 

I have a front caliper leak on my 1979 300D . I would like to find out what
the chance are that the rust has got it and pitted the sleeves. Anyone had
any experience?
Peter Merle
Capetown
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 01:45:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: jim doughty <rider38564@yahoo.com>
Subject: [none]

 Would appreciate some inputfrom you folks on this; In
Dec purchased an 87 300 SDL. The car has been a dream
and I have put about 28k miles on it since,mostly
hiway no real problms. Yesterday for speed and ease I
had  a shop I trust change my oil 7 qts. of mobil 1
which I have been using. On way home oil light comes
on I pull over and shut off and oil is pouring out of
bottom of car and none on dipstick!! Get it towed to
them. Also was told by them that the trap box is
causing turbo to whine due to heat generated from it.
Car has been carefully maintained,I have all records.
What might have caused oil blow out? They said they
would "make things right" if it was their fault. Is
this car now "trashed" how can I determine? Thanks,
Jim Doughty                                          
87 300 sdl (maybe)   
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:08:38 +0100
From: "Tony" <Tony@electro-play.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: [DIESEL] Need some advice on my 207D camper

I've been looking at the archive to find possible sources of manuals to help
with the repair of my 207D. I've written to Alldata, TMC publications and Rusty
so far. Only had a reply from Rusty to date and he says he doesn't have any 207D
information available.

Please can anyone tell me if, in the absence of a 207D manual, it's going to be
practical use for me to seek manuals for specific parts of the vehicle, such as
the OM616.xxx engine and the 601 chassis etc..

Right now, I have what seems to be a clutch problem. Am I right in thinking that
this will be covered adequately in the OM616 engine manual?

If I'm on the right track here and I need to find the serial numbers of the
various parts of the vehicle that aren't easily found, such as the paint code
for instance, can all this information be deciphered from the VIN?
TIA
- --
Tony Halmarack
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 06:34:36 -0400
From: Marshall Booth <mbooth+@pitt.edu>
Subject: [DIESEL] Re: OIL

Jim, I have NO idea what/why the oil ran out! Sounds like either the
plug fell out, the filter wasn't properly installed, or somehow the oil
return line from the turbo or the lines to or from the oil cooler were
damaged. If the engine starts and runs when the leak is plugged and the
oil replaced, then it's likely there was no harm. It is possible that
the turbo could have been damaged, but that is rare (unless the trap
dumped into it - but that has NOTHING to do with oil) - and is a matter
to take up with Mercedes as any trap related failure is subject to an
extended warranty! 

If the engine is not seriously damaged (pretty good chance of it NOT
being damaged with Mobil 1 in it - if you shut it off rather then it
shutting itself off) then you need to have Mercedes remove the trap
oxidizer! They will do it free! The trap is the subject of a recall.
Call and make an appointment. DO NOT accept the dealer telling you it
doesn't need to be done or that they won't do it! It might take them a
week or two to get the parts though!

Let me know what happens. 

Marshall
- -- 
	  Marshall Booth  
      "der Dieseling Doktor" mbooth+@pitt.edu
'87 300TD 154Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 205Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 224Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
154Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 200+kmi, '84 190D 2.2 234Kmi dismantled 
      Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
    http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm


jim doughty wrote:
> 
>  Would appreciate some inputfrom you folks on this; In
> Dec purchased an 87 300 SDL. The car has been a dream
> and I have put about 28k miles on it since,mostly
> hiway no real problms. Yesterday for speed and ease I
> had  a shop I trust change my oil 7 qts. of mobil 1
> which I have been using. On way home oil light comes
> on I pull over and shut off and oil is pouring out of
> bottom of car and none on dipstick!! Get it towed to
> them. Also was told by them that the trap box is
> causing turbo to whine due to heat generated from it.
> Car has been carefully maintained,I have all records.
> What might have caused oil blow out? They said they
> would "make things right" if it was their fault. Is
> this car now "trashed" how can I determine? Thanks,
> Jim Doughty
> 87 300 sdl (maybe)
> __________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:14:05 -0400
From: "John Berryman Jr" <rattailbaby@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d 

Peter,
    It is possible to have rust in your caliper,most caliper leaks I've come
across were due to either worn /broken down rubber seals or over extension
of the piston due to severely worn brake pads and or rotors.
    You can rebuild them yourself or purchase reman.
    Mercedes Benz wants you to change your brake fluid periodically(every 2
years I believe).
.
"Johnny B."
John C. Berryman Jr.
84 190D 2.2 5spd.
83 300TD very smooth
83 300CD still getting there
82 300D out on loan
81 300SD still some parts for sale
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Merle" <peterm@adsmr.co.za>
To: <diesel@mbz.org>
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 4:32 AM
Subject: [DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d


> I have a front caliper leak on my 1979 300D . I would like to find out
what
> the chance are that the rust has got it and pitted the sleeves. Anyone had
> any experience?
> Peter Merle
> Capetown
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:14:49 -0400
From: Peter T.Arnold <pm7088@attbi.com>
Subject: [DIESEL] Enginne Brakes and Moose

I've driven several light trucks {Hino, Mitsibisi, etc}.  They work
well at retarding.
One generally unknown advantage is that they serve to stabilize the
engine temp on long grades.

I have one on my Powerstroke, Gear Vendors unit added by P.O.   I DO
NOT RECCOMEND IT IF YOU HAVE AUTO TRANNY.  You will end up driving the
heat into the tranny, just when it's trying to recover from going up
hill.  The transmission torque converter slips and trys to absorb the
load.

Moose?  I did engage the brake in Vermont a few years ago when a moose
ran out in front of me.  We both survived, her pants weren't as dirty
as mine....



Pete Arnold
Windsor, CT  USA
1987 300SDL  193 Kmi  BIG&BLUE Delvac 1
1954 NASH METROPLITAN, HANGER QUEEN IN THE GARAGE
2001 PT CRUIZER, THE WIFE'S.  BOTH ARE TROUBLE FREE!
'95 F250 125KMI POWERSTROKE, FOR PULLING THE 5TH WHEEL.
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 04:35:44 -0700
From: Stephen Taylor <blyndgesser@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: [DIESEL] Compression

Alex,

Congratulations on your purchase.  Like you, I'm a recent buyer--I've had my
300SD for two months now and I've been very happy.  This online community is
probably your best source of how-to info for these cars, but you definitely
will want to get the factory manual--general consensus is that the Haynes and
Chilton manuals are of limited value (though I'd venture that having one in
the car could be a good idea in case something breaks when you're not near a
computer).  The factory manual is available on CD-ROM from dealers (or maybe
Rusty?), or you can try to pick up a paper copy through eBay.  There's a
learning curve, of course, but how steep depends on your car.  I've been lucky
in that the work I've done on mine has been very minor stuff.  You'll pick up
a lot of hints quickly--electrical and climate control issues seem to be
showing up on the list a lot lately.  But you'll LOVE the car!  Do keep us
posted on how it's doing.

Stephen


Stephen Taylor
'83 300SD "Hagar" 192k+
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:42:17 -0400
From: "John Berryman Jr" <rattailbaby@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: [DIESEL] Re: 

Jim,
    Your car did not puke oil before the oil change.It sounds like a clear
cut case of ineptitude.It is possible that they left out the big o-ring that
seals your filter cannister or didn't use a sealing washer on the drain
plug.
    I hope the shop carry's garage keepers insurance,one way or the other
you are entitled to repairs at their expense.
    Finding and repairing the oil leak may not be good enough to repair
damage caused by running low on oil.
    As I understand your engine will cost about $12,000.00.If your engine is
damaged it should be replaced.I don't think I would allow a shop that hurt
my engine to attempt to repair/replace it.
    They are liable and you should have any work done by the dealer on them.
    You may even be able to get a rental car while your car is being
repaired.
    Whast a mess!!!
.
"Johnny B."
John C. Berryman Jr.
84 190D 2.2 5spd.
83 300TD very smooth
83 300CD still getting there
82 300D out on loan
81 300SD still some parts for sale
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "jim doughty" <rider38564@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel@mbz.org>
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 4:45 AM


> Would appreciate some inputfrom you folks on this; In
> Dec purchased an 87 300 SDL. The car has been a dream
> and I have put about 28k miles on it since,mostly
> hiway no real problms. Yesterday for speed and ease I
> had  a shop I trust change my oil 7 qts. of mobil 1
> which I have been using. On way home oil light comes
> on I pull over and shut off and oil is pouring out of
> bottom of car and none on dipstick!! Get it towed to
> them. Also was told by them that the trap box is
> causing turbo to whine due to heat generated from it.
> Car has been carefully maintained,I have all records.
> What might have caused oil blow out? They said they
> would "make things right" if it was their fault. Is
> this car now "trashed" how can I determine? Thanks,
> Jim Doughty
> 87 300 sdl (maybe)
> __________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:45:11 -0400
From: hosel <hosel@quik.com>
Subject: [DIESEL] Re: 

Jim,

Did you check to see if the drain plug was still in place? It could very 
well have been put back hand tight and forgotten about? What do you mean 
"trap box"? Trap oxidizer? It should have long ago been replace @ MB's 
expense...

Jim K.
87' 300TDT

jim doughty wrote:

> Would appreciate some inputfrom you folks on this; In
>Dec purchased an 87 300 SDL. The car has been a dream
>and I have put about 28k miles on it since,mostly
>hiway no real problms. Yesterday for speed and ease I
>had  a shop I trust change my oil 7 qts. of mobil 1
>which I have been using. On way home oil light comes
>on I pull over and shut off and oil is pouring out of
>bottom of car and none on dipstick!! Get it towed to
>them. Also was told by them that the trap box is
>causing turbo to whine due to heat generated from it.
>Car has been carefully maintained,I have all records.
>What might have caused oil blow out? They said they
>would "make things right" if it was their fault. Is
>this car now "trashed" how can I determine? Thanks,
>Jim Doughty                                          
>87 300 sdl (maybe)   
>__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:15:13 -0400
From: "youngfam@shentel.net" <youngfam@shentel.net>
Subject: RE: [DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d 

Someone had completely forgoten that my 83 240 had REAR brakes, the pistons
were completely siezed/fused to the edges of the cylinder walls, the ruber
parts partialy melted and helping to freeze the action, the disks were
rusted and had made no contact with the pad (which had no material left).
I pulled them apart, used a bit of fine steel wool to remove the surface
rust and they were fine (with a rebuild kit) I was amazed.  I thought for
sure they would be trash.
But...there is only one way to be sure..


Mike Young/



Original Message:
- -----------------
From: Peter Merle peterm@adsmr.co.za
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 10:32:10 +0200
To: diesel@mbz.org
Subject: [DIESEL] Front Caliper leak 300d


I have a front caliper leak on my 1979 300D . I would like to find out what
the chance are that the rust has got it and pitted the sleeves. Anyone had
any experience?
Peter Merle
Capetown
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:15:23 +0000
From: "William Montague" <whm99@hotmail.com>
Subject: [DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine

I want to check timing chain stretch in my '83 300sd 626 w 617 engine.  The 
MB engine manual on CD doesn't detail valve cover removal and I can't find 
it in the archives.

I look at all the linkages and odd bits in the valve cover area and I'm put 
off.

What do I remove, and in what sequence?

Recent success for this tyro:  The transmission wouldn't kick down so I 
found and adjusted the Belden cable.  I also found a large & very loose hose 
connection in the turbo/airfilter department and tightened the hose clamp.  
Yikes!  This thing's a rocket.  Sort of.

Thanks for all the help.

Bill Montague
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:29:38 -0400
From: "youngfam@shentel.net" <youngfam@shentel.net>
Subject: [DIESEL] Shock Absorbers

As part of my upcomming project to rebuild the front end on the 83 240D, I
need to purchase shocks, Rusty has an excellent price on Bilsteins, KYB and
Boge,  are the Bilstiens worth the extra money ?  I know there is alot of
HYPE concerning the Bilsteins...

Mike Young/
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:25:24 -0400
From: "Joseph M. Gaffney" <jgaffney@brookcabinetry.com>
Subject: RE: [DIESEL] 1987 300D Pretty Nice!

Wow.

If I had the money today, I would be bidding on it right now...  thats
the color scheme I'm going for too, black exterior, gray interior... I
am definitely leaning towards the 300D at the moment.

Is the car really as quiet as this guy says? If it is, maybe my
girlfriend won't complain so much ;)  Seriously though, if it is that
quiet, how does this compare to the 87 300SDL?

Joseph M. Gaffney
jgaffney@brookcabinetry.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-diesel@mbz.org [mailto:owner-diesel@mbz.org] On Behalf Of
John Freer
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 1:19 AM
To: diesel
Subject: [DIESEL] 1987 300D Pretty Nice!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem item=1844978881


 

John Freer, Palm Springs, CA

1986 420SEL 103K (for sale)

2002 ML320
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:35:42 -0500
From: David Hunt <cuontv@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Shock Absorbers

Mike,

I bought KYB's once for my 300D ('78 non turbo) and I won't ever make 
that mistake again. They do not ride or last like Bilsteins.
These were my results your results may vary ;-)

David Hunt

youngfam@shentel.net wrote:

>As part of my upcomming project to rebuild the front end on the 83 240D, I
>need to purchase shocks, Rusty has an excellent price on Bilsteins, KYB and
>Boge,  are the Bilstiens worth the extra money ?  I know there is alot of
>HYPE concerning the Bilsteins...
>
>Mike Young/
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:38:54 -0400
From: Marshall Booth <mbooth+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Shock Absorbers

There is little or NO hype regarding Bilsteins! They are simply what MB
designed the suspension around and to use anything else is very
imprudent! The other shocks DO NOT PERFORM or RIDE as well or last as
long either! New Bilsteins (after the ones that came on the car) have a
warranty that lasts forever! I've driven over a million miles in MBs and
a few of those miles were in MBs with shocks OTHER then Bilsteins (the
KYBs were particularly memorable) on them. None of them were even close!

Marshall
- -- 
	  Marshall Booth  
      "der Dieseling Doktor" mbooth+@pitt.edu
'87 300TD 154Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 205Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 224Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
154Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 200+kmi, '84 190D 2.2 234Kmi dismantled 
      Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
    http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 08:42:30 -0400
From: "youngfam@shentel.net" <youngfam@shentel.net>
Subject: RE: [DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine

That linkage freaked me out the first time I thought about taking off the
cover, but its not that bad. Tip: take a picture of it just to be sure!
the first time I took everything off the valve cover, second time I left
the stuff bolted to the valve cover and just unhooked all the linkages that
connect to the stuff on top of the valve cover. Its a trade-off because
even though it took less time the second way, it was more dificult to
remove and replace the cover and difficult to hold the gasket in place
while working the cover in place.
Having a digital cammera available when doing these types of things is a
big help, at least for me. I have needed to consult them on a number of
occasions.

Mike Young/

Original Message:
- -----------------
From: William Montague whm99@hotmail.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:15:23 +0000
To: diesel@mbz.org
Subject: [DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine


I want to check timing chain stretch in my '83 300sd 626 w 617 engine.  The
MB engine manual on CD doesn't detail valve cover removal and I can't find
it in the archives.

I look at all the linkages and odd bits in the valve cover area and I'm put
off.

What do I remove, and in what sequence?

Recent success for this tyro:  The transmission wouldn't kick down so I
found and adjusted the Belden cable.  I also found a large & very loose
hose
connection in the turbo/airfilter department and tightened the hose clamp.
Yikes!  This thing's a rocket.  Sort of.

Thanks for all the help.

Bill Montague
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 09:02:30 -0400
From: "John Berryman Jr" <rattailbaby@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine

Bill,
    Unbolt the black box at the bracket that attaches it to the VC,disonnect
any linkage that would hamper removal,(the ball joints in linkage pop off
with a screwdriver)swing the black box out of the way,you will have to
remove a clip and slide the other linkage that will be in your way off the
shaft,disconnect the link from CC acctuator,remove four 8mm bolts(with a
13mm socket)that hold the VC on and remove VC.Yopu may encounter a little
resistance from the injector return lines but should be able to sneak the
cover off with the lines intact.
Hope that helps.
.
"Johnny B."
John C. Berryman Jr.
84 190D 2.2 5spd.
83 300TD very smooth
83 300CD still getting there
82 300D out on loan
81 300SD still some parts for sale
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William Montague" <whm99@hotmail.com>
To: <diesel@mbz.org>
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 8:15 AM
Subject: [DIESEL] Valve cover removal 617 engine


> I want to check timing chain stretch in my '83 300sd 626 w 617 engine.
The
> MB engine manual on CD doesn't detail valve cover removal and I can't find
> it in the archives.
>
> I look at all the linkages and odd bits in the valve cover area and I'm
put
> off.
>
> What do I remove, and in what sequence?
>
> Recent success for this tyro:  The transmission wouldn't kick down so I
> found and adjusted the Belden cable.  I also found a large & very loose
hose
> connection in the turbo/airfilter department and tightened the hose clamp.
> Yikes!  This thing's a rocket.  Sort of.
>
> Thanks for all the help.
>
> Bill Montague
> __________________________________________________
> To unsubscribe: see http://lists.mbz.org/diesel/
> Archives are at http://lists.mbz.org/diesel/archives/
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 06:13:35 -0700
From: "Joe Knight" <joe@jsandctk.com>
Subject: RE: [DIESEL] Need some advice on my 207D camper

Tony,  Paint code should be on the datacard.  Anybody with an electronic parts catalog that covers your model--dealer?--would be
able to pull that up.  Unfortunately, there don't seem to be a lot of comprehensive Euro EPC's on this side of the pond.  The EPC's
are also the definitive route to parts info, generally--short of reading p/n's directly, that is.

No clue as to where you'll have to go to find 207 specific repair info; don't believe they were ever officially imported to the US.
As for the clutch, 1st thing might well be to bleed the hydraulics, including the brakes for which a prussure bleeder would come in
handy--assuming you have a hydraulic clutch.

Joe

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diesel@mbz.org [mailto:owner-diesel@mbz.org]On Behalf Of
> Tony
> Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 3:09 AM
> To: diesel@mbz.org
> Subject: [DIESEL] Need some advice on my 207D camper
>
>
> I've been looking at the archive to find possible sources of manuals to help
> with the repair of my 207D. I've written to Alldata, TMC publications and Rusty
> so far. Only had a reply from Rusty to date and he says he doesn't have any 207D
> information available.
>
> Please can anyone tell me if, in the absence of a 207D manual, it's going to be
> practical use for me to seek manuals for specific parts of the vehicle, such as
> the OM616.xxx engine and the 601 chassis etc..
>
> Right now, I have what seems to be a clutch problem. Am I right in thinking that
> this will be covered adequately in the OM616 engine manual?
>
> If I'm on the right track here and I need to find the serial numbers of the
> various parts of the vehicle that aren't easily found, such as the paint code
> for instance, can all this information be deciphered from the VIN?
> TIA
> --
> Tony Halmarack
> MBZ.ORG official parts vendor: http://parts.catalog.mbz.org
> eBay specials: http://ebay.mbz.org
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------------------------------

End of diesel V3 #1946
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